The onslaught of Fall does not necessarily mean the end of the landscape season. The passing of summer heat and drought marks the ideal time for planting evergreens, trees and shrubs which are destined to fail when planted in hot, dry summer months.

Trees and shrubs are sold either in containers or ‘B&B,’ balled and burlapped. Plants sold in containers are planted in the container while young, therefore the entire root system of the plant remains intact, whereas balled and burlapped trees and shrubs have been dug out of the nursery ground and have suffered some amount of cutting of the root system. Because of this, container planted trees and shrubs may have a slight advantage during transplant; however, either preparation should thrive so long as the root ball has been properly cared for.  The main thing to look for is a plant that has been balled in its native soil. Some nurseries will dig the plant, place on wrapping and recover with new soil. Called a ‘manufactured ball,’ the end result is a loosely wrapped ball, making it easier for the plant to dry our during transport and planting and increasing the likelihood of the tree transplant failing. A tree or shrub which has been balled in the soil it was grown in will be tightly packed in the burlap and will not wiggle around inside the burlap when gently shaken.
Plants sold in containers must be removed prior to planting. Although in the past it was considered unnecessary to remove the burlap from a B&B tree, loosening the burlap will make it easier for the plant to grow.  After the tree has been placed inside its prepared hole, cut away all strings and let the burlap drop.  The burlap will rot over time, and it will be easier for the roots to spread when they have been freed from the wrapping.
Trees and shrubs should be planted up to their former planting depth (and this should be only slightly over the root ball). Use the soil mark on the trunk as a guide. Transplants should not have their trunks deeply covered with soil or mulch. To prepare a hole for planting, dig an area twice as wide as the ball, and one and a half times deeper than the height of the ball.  In the soil dug from the planting hole, mix one part peat moss for every two parts of soil. This will help the plant retain moisture and keep the soil from compacting too much, allowing the tree’s roots to grow more easily. Two or three inches of peat may be mixed into the soil in the bottom of the hole with a spade as an added measure to promote root growth prior to planting.

Fill the bottom of the hole with the peat and soil mixture until the proper planting depth is reached. An easy way to determine this is to measure the height of the root ball on a yardstick and mark the height with a piece of tape. Lay a board across the top of the hole and fill the bottom of the hole until the tape mark and board are even with each other. Place the tree or shrub into the hole. Remember to cut the burlap away from the root ball.
Fill the hole around the root ball about two thirds full. Water thoroughly and allow the water to soak into the soil.  Finish filling the hole with the soil and peat moss mixture. Periodically tamp the soil with your foot to remove air pockets and pack the soil firmly around the roots.  Create a ‘saucer’ around the edge of the planting by building up a two inch high ridge to prevent water from escaping before it soaks into the ground. Cut away any twine from the tree’s branches.

Water the new plant well. Allow the water to soak into the ground and ensure that the soil around the planting stays moist until the ground freezes. Adequate water supply is essential to the survival of your new tree.

Trees and shrubs add height, contrast and drama to landscapes. Planting new trees and shrubs in the Fall is ideal, as the demands of the summer growing season have passed. Similarly, trees and shrubs may be planted in early Spring before the onslaught of summer heat and dryness, but care must be taken to assure adequate watering throughout the warmer months. Appropriately planted in the Spring and Fall before more delicate plants are ready, trees and shrubs are easily set before and after the busier planting season is upon gardeners and landscapers. What’s more, trees and shrubs require very little long term care, making them a less cumbersome choice, and freeing the attentions of their owners for other landscaping projects.

As much as we hate to admit it, it is that time of year. Time to close the pool and prepare for colder temperatures. Below you will find steps to closing your pool. Please be sure to consult with your favorite pool professional for assistance.

1. Balance the water chemistry:

Approximately 3 – 7 days prior to closing the pool, adjust your water balance within the ranges below:
* pH: 7.2 – 7.6
* Alkalinity: 80 – 120 ppm
* Calcium Hardness: 180 – 220 ppm

Then, shock the pool with a Chlorine Shock or a Non-Chlorine Shock, at least 1lb per 10,000 gallons (follow package directions). Allow the chlorine level to return to 1.0 – 3.0 ppm before adding any winter algaecide and your pool cover. Chlorine tends to break down both algaecides and [floating] pool covers.

2. Remove skimmer baskets, wall fittings, cleaners, solar blankets, ladders from the pool.

Put these in a safe location during the winter. Don’t coil pool cleaners hoses tight.

3. Lower water level in pool.

Using the filter pump, or a submersible pump, lower the level 12″ – 18″ below the skimmer for mesh covers, and 3″ – 6″ below the tile for solid, floating covers. If you are using an Aquador skimmer cover on aboveground or inground pools for some vinyl lined pools, the water level will not need to be lowered.

4. Drain all pumping, filtering, heating and chlorinating equipment.

Every pump, filter, heater and chlorinator has drain plugs to allow water to drain out. All water must be drained or blown out or it will freeze and crack. After draining, D.E. filter grids or Cartridge filters should be removed and cleaned thoroughly. If the filter and pump is small enough to remove it and store it indoors, this may be desirable. If not, using a small amount of air from a shop vacuum, compressor or Mighty Vac is good to blow out any water that may still be in the equipment.

5. Lubricate

Fall closing of the pool is a good time to lubricate the pump lid o-ring o-rings with Magic Lube. If you have a push-pull valve (also known as a slide valve) on the filter, lubricate it’s o-rings as well. If you have a gas heater with cast iron plugs, lubricate these threads or leave the plugs in after draining to prevent rusting.

6. Clean pool

Skim pool, vacuum pool, brush pool. Leaf rake (bag) types skim nets are best. Also useful for scooping large amounts of leaves/debris from pool floor. If pool is especially silty or has lots of algae, Vacuum Pool to Waste. This means to bypass the filter, and vacuum dirt from floors/walls out the backwash line. This prevents constant clogging/cleaning of filter. Place the multiport filter valve on drain to waste position (usually 2pm, if viewed as a clock face) If you have a push-pull filter valve, or a cartridge type filter there is no easy way to vacuum to waste, except for cutting the pipe coming out of the pump and then reconnecting afterwards. Brush the pool thoroughly. The pool should be as clean and clear as possible before covering.

7. Winterize the plumbing to and from the pool

If you have an inground pool, you should blow out the lines using a Mighty Vac to blow air from the skimmer, through the equipment, and back to the pool. Then plug the lines at the pool using expansion plugs. If you don’t blow the lines, add Swimming Pool Antifreeze into the line (follow package directions). Above ground pools usually just need to disconnect the hoses to and from the pump and filter, and plug the wall outlets.

8. Add winterizing algaecide and other floaters.

Remember not to add algaecide and shock at the same time. This tends to result in the chlorine breaking down the algaecide. High chlorine levels can also be harsh to floating solid pool covers. For winter chemical kits, click here.

9. Cover the pool.

A tight fit of your pool cover is essential. Your cover should not have holes or gaps where leaves and debris may enter the pool. A mesh safety cover provides the highest protection and safety. Solid pool covers are not safe and will require a cover pump or siphon to remove rain water and snow melt. Water Bags or AquaBloks are used to secure an inground solid pool cover. Above ground pool covers use a cable/winch device to secure the cover around the pool. Air Pillows are used in above ground pools to absorb the expansion of ice inside the pool. In areas of high wind, an above ground pool owner will find wall bags or cover seal useful products. A leaf net is very useful if you have a lot of trees surrounding your pool.